Fruit
Growing apples
Apples calendar
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | Plant in January | Plant in February | Plant in March | Plant in November | Plant in December | |||||||
| Harvest | Harvest in August | Harvest in September | Harvest in October | |||||||||
| Prune | Prune in January | Prune in February | Prune in July | Prune in August | Prune in December |
Overview
An apple tree is one of the most satisfying things you can plant, and it need not be large. Trees are sold grafted onto rootstocks that control their size, so you can grow a cordon against a fence, a patio pot tree, or a classic orchard shape. Most varieties need pollen from a different apple flowering at the same time to set fruit.
Varieties to try
'Discovery' is an early dessert apple with crisp, red-flushed fruit that keeps for only a short while. 'Sunset' gives a Cox-like flavour on a far healthier, easier tree. 'Egremont Russet' has nutty, golden-brown fruit and is a good pollinator. For cooking, 'Bramley's Seedling' is the classic but needs two other partners, while 'Katy' suits colder, wetter regions.
Soil and site
Best soil: Deep, well-drained but moisture-retentive loam; avoid waterlogged ground and frost pockets.
Choose a sunny spot sheltered from wind, as cold gusts during blossom stop bees flying. Avoid the bottom of slopes where frost settles. Rootstock M27 suits pots and tiny gardens, M9 or M26 suit cordons and small trees, and MM106 makes a medium tree for an average garden. Dwarf rootstocks need a permanent stake.
Sowing and planting
Plant bare-root trees between November and March whenever the ground is not frozen; container-grown trees can go in at other times if watered diligently. Dig a wide, shallow hole, spread the roots, and keep the knobbly graft union well above soil level. Drive in a stake on the windward side before backfilling, then tie the trunk and mulch.
Spacing: Spacing depends on rootstock: around 1.5 m for M27 dwarfs, 3–5 m for MM106 half-standards. Keep the graft union above soil.
Care
Water young trees weekly through their first two summers and keep a clear, grass-free circle around the trunk. Mulch with compost each spring. Thin fruitlets in early summer to one or two per cluster so the remaining apples size up. Prune open-grown trees in winter, removing crossing and dead wood; cut trained forms such as cordons in late summer.
Harvesting and storing
An apple is ready when it parts from the spur with a gentle lift and twist. Early varieties are best eaten straight from the tree, while late ones often improve in store. Wrap sound fruit individually in paper and keep it in a cool, dark, airy shed, checking regularly and removing any that start to rot.
Common problems
Aphids curl young leaves in spring; ladybirds and earwigs usually catch up with them. Powdery mildew whitens shoot tips on susceptible varieties, so prune out infected tips in winter. Late frosts can blacken blossom and leave russeted rings on fruit. Honey fungus occasionally kills trees, showing as white sheets of fungus under the bark at the base.
Read more on the problems that most often hit apples:
Not sure what you're looking at? Try diagnosing it by symptom.
Month-by-month reminders
Jobs for apples come round in January, February, March, July, August, September, October, November and December. Each month page lists the rest of the garden's jobs for the same weeks.
Grow alongside
Sources
Names follow Kew's Plants of the World Online; timings and spacings reflect UK growing practice and were checked against the references below. Text is our own. See our editorial policy.