Lawn care through the year: a UK calendar

A healthy UK lawn needs regular mowing from March to October, cutting little and often and never removing more than a third of the grass height in one go. Feed it lightly in spring, leave it to go brown in a summer drought, and save the big jobs of scarifying, aerating, overseeding and repairing for early autumn, when the soil is warm and moist. In winter the best thing to do is stay off it.

Most lawn problems in British gardens come from mowing too short, compacted soil and too much shade, not from a lack of products. The calendar below concentrates on the work that makes a real difference.

Spring: March to May

First cuts. Grass starts growing when soil temperatures rise above about 5°C, usually in March in the south and April further north. Pick a dry day and set the mower high for the first cut, just taking the tips off. Lower the blades gradually over the following weeks to your normal summer height.

How short? For a hard-wearing family lawn, 3 to 4 cm is ideal. Fine ornamental lawns can be cut to 2 cm, but they need much more attention. Shady lawns cope better left longer, at 5 cm or more.

Rake and tidy. A light rake with a spring-tine rake lifts dead grass and moss ahead of the growing season. Save heavy scarifying for autumn, as spring scarifying can leave bare patches just as weeds start germinating.

Feeding. If your grass is pale and thin, a spring feed in April or May helps it thicken up. Use a lawn feed according to the packet rate and apply when rain is forecast, or water it in. Lawns on rich soil, or where clippings are left on, may not need feeding at all.

Bulbs in grass. If you have crocuses, daffodils or snowdrops naturalised in the lawn, leave those areas unmown for about six weeks after flowering so the leaves can feed next year’s bulbs.

Bare patches and new lawns. April is the second-best time to sow grass seed, after September. Keep seeded areas moist until they establish. See our April jobs for timings.

Leave some long. Many gardeners now leave part or all of the lawn uncut during May, an idea popularised by the charity Plantlife’s No Mow May. Dandelions, clover, self-heal and daisies flower and feed early bees. Even a strip left long along a border edge helps. Our May jobs suggest other wildlife-friendly tasks.

Summer: June to August

Mowing. In a growing season, mow once a week, or twice in a lush, wet spell. Little and often keeps the grass dense and crowds out weeds. Vary the direction each time so the grass does not lean one way.

Clippings. Leaving short clippings on the lawn, sometimes called grasscycling, returns nutrients and moisture. Use a mulching mower or mow often enough that the clippings are short. Long clumps should be collected and added to the compost heap; see making compost.

Drought. When the weather turns hot and dry, raise the blades to 5 cm or more and mow less often. Stop feeding, as fertiliser on dry grass can scorch it. An established lawn that turns straw-coloured is dormant, not dead, and greens up after rain. Our guide to watering in a heatwave explains why lawns sit at the bottom of the watering list.

Edges. Trim edges with long-handled shears after mowing. Recut a crisp edge with a half-moon iron once or twice a year, in spring and autumn, rather than every week.

Autumn: September to November

Early autumn is the most important season for lawn care. The soil is warm, rain returns and weeds slow down, so grass recovers from repairs quickly.

Scarifying. Thatch is the layer of dead grass, moss and roots that builds up at the base of the grass. A little is fine, but more than about 1 cm stops water and air reaching the soil. Rake hard with a spring-tine rake, or hire a powered scarifier for large lawns, working in two directions. The lawn will look scruffy for a few weeks. September is ideal; finish by early October.

Aerating. Compaction from feet, play and mowing is a common reason for poor grass and moss. Push a garden fork 10 cm into the turf every 10 to 15 cm and rock it gently, or use a hollow-tine aerator, which removes small cores of soil. Concentrate on worn paths and areas where puddles collect.

Top dressing. After aerating, spread a thin layer of top dressing, a mix of sieved soil, sharp sand and fine compost, and brush it into the holes with a stiff broom. On heavy clay, use more sand in the mix to improve drainage.

Overseeding. Scatter grass seed over thin areas at the rate on the packet and rake it in lightly. Choose a hard-wearing mix with ryegrass for family lawns, and a shade mix under trees. Keep it moist if the weather is dry. See September jobs for this and other autumn tasks.

Repairing bare patches. Cut out dead turf, loosen the soil, level it and either sow seed or lay a piece of turf, firming it down well.

Autumn feed. If you feed at all, autumn lawn feeds are lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium, which toughens grass for winter. Apply in September or early October.

Leaves. Rake or mow up fallen leaves regularly. Left in a thick layer they block light and cause yellow patches. Bag or stack them to make leaf mould for mulching.

Final cuts. Keep mowing on a higher setting while the grass is still growing, often into November in mild years.

Winter: December to February

Keep off the lawn when it is frozen or waterlogged. Walking on frosted grass breaks the blades and leaves dark footprints, and treading on soggy soil compacts it. If a mild winter keeps the grass growing, an occasional high cut on a dry day is fine.

This is also the time to service the mower, sharpen or replace the blade and plan any changes, such as widening paths across the lawn where wear is worst.

Common lawn problems

Moss. Moss is a symptom, not a cause. It thrives in shade, damp, compacted or acidic soil, and grass cut too short. Rake it out in autumn, then tackle the cause: aerate, cut higher and overseed with a shade mix. In deep shade under trees, replacing grass with a shade-loving planting may be the better answer.

Brown patches with grubs. Irregular yellow and brown patches in spring, often with birds pecking at the turf, can be caused by leatherjackets, the larvae of crane flies. Lift a piece of turf and look for grey-brown grubs. Biological control with nematodes is effective in early autumn.

Brown patches in summer. Usually drought stress, or scorch from dog urine or spilled fertiliser. They recover with rain or with a thorough watering of the patch.

Weeds. Daisies, clover and speedwell are harmless and good for pollinators. Rosette weeds such as dandelions and plantains can be removed with a daisy grubber, taking as much root as possible. A dense, well-fed lawn cut at the right height is the best weed control there is.

Fairy rings and toadstools. Toadstools pop up in damp autumn weather and do no harm; brush them off if children or pets are around. Rings of dark green or dead grass are caused by fungi in the soil and are hard to remove, but aerating and watering the ring can help.

Questions people ask

When should I cut my lawn for the first time in the UK? When the grass starts growing, usually March or early April. Wait for a dry day and set the mower to its highest setting.

Is it better to leave grass clippings on the lawn? Short clippings are fine and return nutrients. Collect them if they lie in thick clumps, which can smother the grass.

When is the best time to sow grass seed? September, when the soil is warm and moist. April is the second choice, but you will need to water more.

How do I get rid of moss without chemicals? Rake it out in autumn, aerate, cut the grass higher and overseed thin areas. Moss returns if shade or compaction are not addressed.

Sources and further reading

Clemson University Home & Garden Information Center — Mowing lawns
Clemson University Home & Garden Information Center — Watering lawns
UC Statewide IPM Program, UC Guide to Healthy Lawns — Dethatching
Met Office — UK climate